Join us for a tour of Puerto Rico’s first agricola (farmer) rum estate distillery!
San Juan Artisan Distillers (Destilería San Juan) in Vega Alta is the only rum factory in Puerto Rico that makes its rum from sugar cane plants, inspired by the island’s tradition. Most rum distillers import molasses from other countries. But at this plant just half an hour west of San Juan, we got to walk through sugar cane fields, visit the barrel room, see the distillation tanks, learn what experimental flavors are brewing in the lab, watch staff label the bottles, and of course taste the various flavors of rum!
A family-owned company that launched in 2011, San Juan Artisan Distillers produce handcrafted ron caña (sugar cane rum) of exceptional quality infused with local tropical fruit, natural flavors and spices. The distillery makes six fruit-infused rums under the brand Tresclavos—Ginger Spice, Sweet Piña, Passion Parcha, Rumba Mango, Coco Loco, and Bili Quenepa—as well as an award-winning signature rum called Ron Pepón.
It’s the only rum distiller on the island that can offer a tour of the rum process from the sugar can plant all the way to your lips!
Thank you, Monica, for the informative — and delicious! — tour.
While trying to enter Ocean Lab Brewing Company from the beach at Carolina, Puerto Rico, we were stopped by a burly security guard. He told us we couldn’t walk through this private club named Vivo, and pointed us around the building to the street side to enter the restaurant from the parking lot with the rest of the lowly non-members.
Well, exc-u-u-u-u-se me! (Fellow Boomers will recognize that reference.)
Our table on the third-floor balcony at Ocean Lab gave us a bird’s eye view of the Vivo Beach Club, so we googled it. It calls itself “the hottest private beach club in town.” You can join, or pay $40 for a day pass. This video shows you what you get.
After lunch, Bob tried to sneak through the club again to get out to the beach. Despite putting on his very best I-belong-here-don’t-mess-with-me act, he was stopped by the alert security guards and rerouted to the pedestrian exit. Foiled again!
We’re starting to explore beaches on Puerto Rico’s southeast coast, beginning with Playa de Guayanés in Yabucoa. The warmest water my tootsies have ever been dipped in! It’s a popular local beach, but still very quiet. The sand offered up magnificent seashells in various shades of brown.
But watch out for the red ants that sting in the grassy sand under the palm trees!
Our family visited Arecibo Observatory to see the 1,000-foot radio-telescope constructed in a sinkhole in the karst region of western Puerto Rico during a vacation in April 2008. The radio-telescope and its visitors center offered a fascinating exploration of space for my two science-minded kids. Naturally, they don’t remember it all today. But Bob and I do! That’s why, when we heard that the colossal radio-telescope had collapsed last year, we booked tickets as soon as the facility reopened to see how it looks now.
Arecibo Observatory in 2008
Here are some photos from our 2008 visit with our kids, Aryk and Gavin, who were 10 and 7.
The thing on the right is the Gregorian Dome36 cables held the telescope and dome up
Arecibo Observatory Today
And here is what it looks like, almost exactly 14 years later.
The first three cables snapped in November 2019, and the rest a month later. A couple of years earlier, Puerto Rico experienced a number of earthquakes, which may have compromised the structure’s integrity. But there really is no definitive answer as to why it collapsed.
The Arecibo facility has asked the National Science Foundation for funds to build back better, but has received no answer.
The Past and Present Converge
Aryk and Gavin stand in front of the Saturn icon in April 2008. Note the tower support in the back.Saturn, taken in April 2022. Note the absence of any tower structure behind. Same spot, no radio-telescope.
Watch a spectacular YouTube video of the crash here.
The Work Continues Anyway
Despite the collapse of the giant radio-telescope, scientists continue their work at the Arecibo Observatory (AO) to study the huge amount of data collected over 50 years. It is still recognized as a world-leading radio astronomy, solar system radar, and atmospheric physics facility. It contributes highly relevant data to support discovery, innovation, and the advancement of science for the well-being of humankind.
Visitors and Science Center
The state-of-the-art Science and Visitors Center holds a lively interactive museum where kids can watch a film, build a spaceship, play games, and see a model of the original telescope. It’s definitely worth the trip!
As Messy Suitcase makes the rounds of rum distilleries across Puerto Rico, we discovered a new boutique one in Old San Juan and decided to pay a visit. Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop is a small-batch, pot-distilled sipping rum distillery in a gorgeous historic building.
Sipping
“Sipping” is industry-speak for expensive – the good stuff you drink on its own, as opposed to the cheap stuff you pour into a cocktail.
Scryer was founded by a couple of buddies shortly before the pandemic. Garrett, who led our tour, started his alcohol education in whiskey and brought that expertise to rum distilling. But while the partners have created a delicious sipping rum, a lovely bar and a delightful rooftop, they have a lot to learn about running a good tour! They missed out on a lot of opportunities. Find out why in this video.
(Sorry in advance for the loud music in the background – they conduct the tour right next to the noisy bar.)
This innocuous baggy contains the freshest coffee I will ever drink.
It came from beans collected at our friend John Lombardo’s 10-acre mountain home in Utuado, Puerto Rico. John then dried the beans in the sun, roasted them in a wok, ground them, and delivered them to us yesterday. I wish the Internet could deliver to you the incredible smell. I can’t wait to drink!
John’s Utuado coffee, Step 2
Brewed to perfection. Smells like heaven.
John’s Utuado coffee, Step 3
Add some leche (milk) and drink!
Delicious.
We got this reward because we picked coffee with John at his hacienda last fall. And we hope to do it again, many times!
We spent a morning flying across the rainforest canopy at JungleQui Zipline Park in El Yunque National Forest. I don’t know which was more spectacular – the adrenaline rush of the ziplines as we flew from tree to tree like Tarzan, the incredible views of the lush flora and the river far below, or the sparkling personalities of our tour guides.
There was a little bit of hiking involved, some on a steep trail, so if you do this, you need to be in reasonable physical condition. Make sure to wear good shoes. We wished we had realized we could carry water bottles, because it took 2 ½ hours long to navigate 11 ziplines and one exhilarating rappel. And it got hot!
We drove to Junglequi, but they also operate a service that will pick you up at your hotel, if you don’t rent a car or prefer not to drive.
Across from the parking lot at the entrance of Junglequi, our local friend Julio, who operates Rosario Tours, took us down a trail to a locals spot by the river, where you can jump off a rock into the water or even swing out on a rope! If you’re ever looking for a personalized tour of any part of Puerto Rico from someone who has a true passion for discovery and a contagious joy, Julio Flores is your man!
No trip to Puerto Rico is complete without going deep underground to explore Camuy Caverns, officially known as Rio Camuy Cave Park. It’s located in the karst mountains of northwestern Puerto Rico, where the towns of Camuy, Hatillo, and Lares come together. It was fascinating to see what nature wrought over millions of years, as well as the huge impact of Hurricane Maria.
Make sure you stay till the end: There is surprise bonus material you won’t want to miss!
When we returned to Puerto Rico last fall, it immediately felt like home. We lived here in the 90s for a while when I was a foreign correspondent for The Associated Press, and have been back to visit four times with our kids. The island gave us a warm hug the moment we stepped off the plane. Then we started exploring in ways we were never able to do while living and working here, or with our kids. We discovered why it is called the Isla del Encanto. Such amazing nature and variety! Such inspiring cultural attractions! Such rich history! Such warm people!
A Perfectly Flawed Place
We acknowledge that the island has its drawbacks. It’s not paradise, it is a real place, with much to love but also much to endure. It’s very hot in the summer. The rainstorms can be dramatically violent. There are sometimes hurricanes and earthquakes. It can be loud. The fried food can be downright horrible. The potholes are huge. People drive like maniacs around the capital. Bathrooms are often dirty and lacking paper. People litter. The Puerto Rican accent is difficult to comprehend – very fast, dropping ‘s’es left and right. But we take it in stride, with a sense of humor, and accept Puerto Rico for what it is. We always carry trash bags, toilet paper, and earplugs, to protect our own ears and butts and perhaps leave things a little better than we find them.
Discovering Cabo Rojo
Anyway … we have been exploring the island, a month at a time in various areas, the usual Messy Suitcase traveling scheme. So we spent a month earlier this year in Cabo Rojo, on the southwestern tip of Puerto Rico.
Cabo Rojo is in the blue region on the left. San Juan is at the top.
But this time was different. We fell in love. Why? The hiking was unbelievable, whether near the ocean with cliffs and caves, or in the mountains with 180-degree ocean views, or in a dry forest that felt like Colorado. The beaches on the Caribbean Sea and the Mona Passage were gentle, with clear water perfect for swimming, kayaking, and snorkeling. On the way to the mountains to hike or the beaches to swim, we passed nature reserves with mountain bike trails, and I yearned to climb on a bike and explore. But I couldn’t, as I was living out of a messy suitcase with no room for a bike!
Hiking GuanaquillaJoyuda SunsetHiking near the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse
The beach closest to our place in town was a tiny neighborhood one called Ostiones. We found a favorite spot there where we would set our beach chairs under the mangroves, listen to the gentle surf, and watch nature happen. A school of fish. A sea turtle. The occasional kayaker passing.
Sea turtle peeking outCrab swimming byOstiones BeachImages of Ostiones Beach
We left for our next stop, Isabela. It was lovely, but we kept comparing it to Cabo Rojo. The beaches were rough. The hiking was limited. There was one bike trail. We enjoyed ourselves, but everything was lacking compared to Cabo Rojo.
Then, while casually browsing Zillow on the beach, I saw a real estate listing for a house in a neighborhood up the road from Ostiones. I watched it for a month, as we left Isabela and returned to San Juan. Bob and I finally decided to go see it. While we were there, we scheduled to see a couple of condos up the road.
The House
Our first view of our house
We walked inside and fell in love. The house was handcrafted for us, it seemed, from the beautiful custom woodworking the owner had done on the living room wall and around all the doors and windows, to the large open kitchen, to the balconies off of the bedrooms and office, to the cozy covered patio where I will sit and read, to the roof garden.
Cozy covered patioBalcony
We went to see another condo because it was already scheduled, but it paled in comparison to the Cabo Rojo house and validated our feelings. So we went to lunch in Joyuda, a little fishing village, to discuss it. While we sat with our drinks gazing out at the turquoise sea, we emailed an offer to the realtor.
As we sat on Ostiones an hour later watching a sea turtle swim, our offer was accepted! The owners, who are moving to Florida, also offered us the furniture, much of which we will keep, rugs and huge pieces excepted. And they offered the kayak! We do plan to build a deck off the back for dining, and Bob has always dreamed of having an outdoor kitchen and pizza oven.
At this point, we have a signed contract in hand, an inspection scheduled for later this week, and an April 30 closing. The owners will rent from us for another month before heading to their new home. Then it is ours!
Our Perfect Anchor
The house will be the perfect anchor for our life. Great running, swimming, kayaking, and bike riding right out the door. A tennis club five minutes away. Only ten minutes up the road, there is a grocery store, Walgreens, and the pueblo of Cabo Rojo, with its Plaza that hosts events like the annual Three Kings Parade. A fishing village, Puerto Reale, is a mile around the bend; it holds an annual Boat Parade in December. The city of Mayaguez (Puerto Rico’s third-largest) is just 15 minutes away.
The only downside is that San Juan International Airport is more than two hours away. But it’s an easy drive, almost all highway, and it’s worth it for the destination. We have made friends in San Juan whom we plan to visit regularly, and return the favor by hosting. There are also two closer airports, in Aguadilla and Ponce.
Last week we made an offer on a house in Cabo Rojo. Here’s the story of why, after 3 ½ years of a traveling retirement, we are (sort of) settling down.
I prefer to call it anchoring. The traveling will continue.
When we drove our Tacoma out of Colorado and embarked on our adventure in fall 2018, the world was in a different place. We were all healthy, traveling was safe, and we envisioned at least a decade of footloose exploration of the globe, until we got tired of traveling or couldn’t physically do it anymore. Our son Gavin took a gap year from high school before starting college, and we all took off on the road trip of life!
Leaving Colorado, Sept. 2018
We started in Tlaquepaque, Mexico, where we took an immersive Spanish class.
Then Guanajuato. Mexico City. A visit to Puerto Vallarta. Acapulco.
We experienced butterflies, beaches, tacos, mercados, museums, Mayan ruins, mountains, canyons, cities, villages. It was fascinating! Invigorating!
With Gavin starting at Champlain College in Burlington, VT, in August 2019, we headed to our lake house in Vermont for the summer. We hadn’t been able to enjoy this home while living in Colorado, and had forgotten how lovely it was to float on our lake in a kayak, hike in the Green Mountains, ride 30 miles on challenging country roads. We decided we would travel nine months of the year and return to Vermont every summer.
The plan was set.
Then life intervened. The day we dropped Gavin off at college, Bob’s mom called to say she had been diagnosed with terminal colon cancer. When she went into hospice care, we moved into her condo and cared for her through the end of her life. It was a gift.
After she passed, we flew down to Mexico City to resume our traveling life.
Five weeks into our three-month stay, Covid arrived, and everything changed. When the world locked down in March 2020, the whole family headed to Grandma’s condo. On his way there from college, Gavin caught the coronavirus. He was sick for a month, quarantined in his bedroom, and never really recovered. It turned into long-haul Covid.
Gavin in bed, thermometer in mouth
Two years later, Gavin has been diagnosed with a chronic illness called POTS, similar to chronic fatigue, and forges a daily battle to improve while slowly finishing college. This struggle will last into his adulthood. We no longer want to go off and live in Asia or Africa for months and months at a time. We want to be a much shorter plane ride away, if needed.
The constant evolution of Covid makes travel complicated and not as safe as it was when we started.
And now the war in Europe threatens the stability of the whole planet.
In the midst of all this disruption, I find I crave stability. An anchor.
We have also discovered that a life of just travel and exploration is not a full life. Part of the reason we maintain this blog and YouTube channel is to give us purpose, and a connection with those we love and the world. But we also need in-person connection. Friends. Volunteer work. Community. We have started making these in Vermont, and we cherish our friends there.
