Trouble in Paradise, Part 2: Traveling with a Cat

It takes a lot of money, care, and attention to successfully incorporate a cat into a traveling lifestyle.

We travel with a very sweet cat, Kaylee. She’s a petite Maine Coon, very affectionate but also very nervous.

She technically belongs to our oldest child, Aryk, but as Aryk is still finishing grad school in England, Kaylee travels with us.

And she doesn’t like it.

It’s not easy for us, either. But we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Cats and Planes

Flying with a cat companion is a logistical challenge. Here are the many steps:

  • You have to call the airline to reserve the cat’s spot, hoping that she won’t exceed their quota of pets per plane.
  • You have to pay a fee; in the case of Southwest, it’s $95 each way.
  • You have to purchase a carrier that fulfills their requirements.
  • Then you have to tote her all over the airport, make sure the skittish kitty doesn’t have a panic attack, and get her through the security line without her bolting. (Hint: Make sure she’s on a leash so she can’t run, but since she can still shred you in a panic, also ask for a private screening. That’s where they take you and the cat into a small room and then take her carrier away to be x-rayed.)
  • During the flight, you have to listen to her cry from inside her carrier between your feet (so comfortable). If you’re lucky, the middle seat will be clear and you can put her there instead. We have an expandable carrier, and it greatly reduces her anxiety to be able to spread out.
  • During transfers between planes, you have to find a place for her to do her business in the portable litter box you packed (with the litter that made security red-flag your backpack as a security risk), and give her some food and water, all of which she will ignore.

In addition, to bring Kaylee to Puerto Rico, we had to get an international health certificate, which entailed finding a specific kind of vet and paying $240 for the paperwork, an extra exam, and extra shots. And then the authorities in PR didn’t even ask to see any of it! We have done this twice. I spoke to a dog owner here who did it for three dogs, at much greater expense because of their large size, and no one asked to see their paperwork, either. I know if we skip this step, though, the authorities will ask for it and send her back to the States.

Hiding Places

Kaylee can always tell when we are about to move. When our suitcases come out, she starts looking for hiding places — and we start looking for ways to keep her out of those hiding places. We once had to practically disassemble a bed in a motel when she climbed up inside the box frame.

This hiding place in the stairway in Isabela didn’t work.

Music and Meds

Alleviating Kaylee’s anxiety about flying is crucial, so we got gabapentin, an anti-anxiety medicine, from the vet, which has helped Kaylee endure the terrifying airport screenings and long periods stuck in the carrier. Usually. It does wear out, though. You can tell because she starts thrashing and meowing. A friend who operates a doggie daycare suggested I play a calming playlist from Amazon music. This works miracles! I just place the phone on her carrier to act as her private concert hall, and she is calmed instantly. Thank you, Cesca Ferrante Segalas!

Managing Feline Anxiety While Living as Nomad

Cats like routine, and life is always changing when you travel. We manage Kaylee’s stress as best we can, but there’s a limit to what we can do. Sometimes local cats meow outside the windows at night, or come up to the door during the day. Humans shove her into carriers with no warning, and sometimes leave her there for hours while we travel in cars or planes. Food on the road is inconsistent, depending on what’s available where we are loving at the time. The environment changes monthly, when we move to a new condo. (This is part of the reason we bought the house in Cabo Rojo.)

Kaylee’s buddy Ellie, our Russian Blue who lives at college with Gavin, may be in the house for months (over summer break), and then, just when they have finally adjusted to each other (again), will abruptly disappear with no explanation.

Visiting Ellie

Once, while living in Mexico City, we put Kaylee in boarding while we took a short jaunt to Acapulco. We had to return early due to COVID, but the vet was calling anyway, saying our kitty was freaked out by another cat who wouldn’t stop yowling. We arrived to find her hiding in the kitty playroom, her body tucked deeply into the bottom tire in a stack.

Kaylee was recently diagnosed with alopecia, after she licked all the hair off one of her furry legs. The vet said this could be caused by fleas – and told us all cats in PR should be regularly treated for fleas and heartworm – by food allergies, or by stress. We are treating her for fleas, and we’ll test for food allergies this summer if her symptoms persist. But in all likelihood, it’s anxiety. So, we make her life as easy as possible, give her tons of attention, staying home some days just to provide a lap for her to nap in, and keeping up her routines as much as we can (within limits).

Finding Vet Services for Pets

Finding vets to care for cats in a place where you don’t speak the language well is a constant challenge. Their front claws must be trimmed regularly, they must be treated to prevent fleas and heartworm, and sometimes they get sick. The upside is that it’s usually less expensive anywhere else than in the States.

Our cat Equinox took ill a week into our Mexico City stay in early 2020. We found a vet within walking distance whose convenient office we had noted while exploring the city, and rushed him there. Fortunately, one vet spoke English, and he got the city’s best kitty cardiologist involved when it turned out our cat had hypertrophic cardiomyopathy. In humans, this condition is called “the widow maker” because often it’s often undetected until the patient, usually a man, has a sudden fatal heart attack. Alas, the same was true for our dear Noxy. He was hospitalized but only lived through a weekend, and had to be put to sleep in the middle of the night when he became agitated and had trouble breathing.

Kaylee says goodbye to Noxy

But he got excellent care. We were called in, we brought Kaylee to say goodbye to her friend, the children were called, and it was as good a pt death experience as is possible, And the cost for that care and his subsequent cremation was a fraction of the cost for the same in the States.

Stress and Health

However, the stress of traveling and then moving to a mile-high city probably contributed to his demise, and this is why I am vigilant about managing Kaylee’s stress. The vet gave us this resource for helping keep kitty stress down: https://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats/feline-life-stressors

I hope the move to Cabo Rojo in winters will give her a more settled life. Alternating between two households should be much easier than adjusting to a new home every month! And when she finally moves in with her owner, our oldest child Aryk, we will probably stick to healing aid organizations care for all the stray cats in Puerto Rico.

Meanwhile, whenever I sit down to use the computer, read a book, or watch TV, I lay Kaylee’s favorite towel across my lap and call her name. She is here in an instant, ready to cuddle while I work. In fact, she is in my lap right now!

Because despite all the stress, the most important thing I can do for my traveling cat is to give her love.

We Are Buying a House in Puerto Rico!

Part 1: Why!

Last week we made an offer on a house in Cabo Rojo. Here’s the story of why, after 3 ½ years of a traveling retirement, we are (sort of) settling down.

I prefer to call it anchoring. The traveling will continue.

When we drove our Tacoma out of Colorado and embarked on our adventure in fall 2018, the world was in a different place. We were all healthy, traveling was safe, and we envisioned at least a decade of footloose exploration of the globe, until we got tired of traveling or couldn’t physically do it anymore. Our son Gavin took a gap year from high school before starting college, and we all took off on the road trip of life!

Leaving Colorado, Sept. 2018

We started in Tlaquepaque, Mexico, where we took an immersive Spanish class.

Then Guanajuato. Mexico City. A visit to Puerto Vallarta. Acapulco.

We experienced butterflies, beaches, tacos, mercados, museums, Mayan ruins, mountains, canyons, cities, villages. It was fascinating! Invigorating!

With Gavin starting at Champlain College in Burlington, VT, in August 2019, we headed to our lake house in Vermont for the summer. We hadn’t been able to enjoy this home while living in Colorado, and had forgotten how lovely it was to float on our lake in a kayak, hike in the Green Mountains, ride 30 miles on challenging country roads. We decided we would travel nine months of the year and return to Vermont every summer.

The plan was set.

Then life intervened. The day we dropped Gavin off at college, Bob’s mom called to say she had been diagnosed with terminal colon cancer. When she went into hospice care, we moved into her condo and cared for her through the end of her life. It was a gift.

After she passed, we flew down to Mexico City to resume our traveling life.

Five weeks into our three-month stay, Covid arrived, and everything changed. When the world locked down in March 2020, the whole family headed to Grandma’s condo. On his way there from college, Gavin caught the coronavirus. He was sick for a month, quarantined in his bedroom, and never really recovered. It turned into long-haul Covid.

Gavin in bed, thermometer in mouth

Two years later, Gavin has been diagnosed with a chronic illness called POTS, similar to chronic fatigue, and forges a daily battle to improve while slowly finishing college. This struggle will last into his adulthood. We no longer want to go off and live in Asia or Africa for months and months at a time. We want to be a much shorter plane ride away, if needed.

The constant evolution of Covid makes travel complicated and not as safe as it was when we started.

And now the war in Europe threatens the stability of the whole planet.

In the midst of all this disruption, I find I crave stability. An anchor.

We have also discovered that a life of just travel and exploration is not a full life. Part of the reason we maintain this blog and YouTube channel is to give us purpose, and a connection with those we love and the world. But we also need in-person connection. Friends. Volunteer work. Community. We have started making these in Vermont, and we cherish our friends there.

Up Next … Why Cabo Rojo?

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 4:

Finding New York-Quality Pizza in Puerto Rico

Finding good pizza is a top priority no matter where we stay. We lived for almost two decades in and around New York City, and consequently are VERY picky about our pie.

Fortunately, we have found that the New York-Puerto Rican connection means that the island has more than its share of excellent pizza.

Here are our favorites:

Luquillo: Revolution Pizza

Revolution Pizza, at the kioskos in Luquillo, serves up excellent, genuine NY pizza. Ask for a table in the back with a view of the ocean. Come hungry, you’ll leave happy.
Info: facebook.com/RevolutionPizzaShop
Map: Kiosko #34 Km35 00773 Luquillo, Puerto Rico

Source: Revolution Pizza

San Juan: Pizzaiolo Pizza in Isla Verde

You can choose from Brazilian or NY Style pizza. This was our favorite when we lived in Ocean Park in the 1990s, and we were thrilled to discover when we returned in 2021 that is still here and still excellent.
Info: No website
Map: 3038 Av. Isla Verde, Carolina, 00979

UPDATE: This pizza shop closed on early 2022, sadly.

Isabela: Junior’s Pizza at Jobos Beach

Outdoor dining. Good cocktails. A great variety of ingredients and personal pizzas are available, so you don’t have to agree on toppings or sauces. It’s not on the beach, but a block up, with its own parking lot, which is convenient. they even made us a pizza once when they were officially closed, but the pizza guy was still hanging out after a private event. That is customer service!
Info: No website.
Map: goo.gl/maps/wSZMjRhDZJYxxPKZ8

Cabo Rojo: Papa’s Pizza

Because of COVID, we only ever had carry-out, but it was only three blocks from our apartment. It was consistently excellent.
Info: facebook.com/papaspizzacaborojo
Map: #49 Calle Rios Rivera, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Island Pizza Chains

Marco’s Pizza is good. Williams Pizza sucks. You can find the US chains like Papa John’s if that’s your thing.

I hope you enjoyed our guide to Puerto Rican food! Please add your recommendations and thoughts in the comments!

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 3:

Our Favorite Restaurants Around the Island

Although we have encouraged a sense of adventure and experimentation with cuisine, we also understand that your time on the island of Puerto Rico is limited, and you might want to be pointed toward some proven winners. So here are Messy Suitcase’s recommendations for the best places we have eaten on the island. But remember, everyone has different taste!

Food Truck Parks

San Juan: Miramar Food Truck Park

This park in a chic urban neighborhood has an excellent beer place, Greek, Chinese/Latin fusion, vegan, frappes, Mexican, and more. On weekends, enjoy live music.
Info: facebook.com/MiramarFoodTruckPark
Map: 1006 Ave. Ponce de Leon 00907 San Juan, Puerto Rico

Miramar Food Truck Park

Luquillo: Playa La Pared

Food trucks set up shop on weekend nights across from the beach at La Pared in Luquillo. There are only two or three, including the taco truck Mi Parcela, but they are excellent.
Info: No website
Map: Calle Herminio Diaz Navarro, Luquillo, Puerto Rico

La Pared food trucks

Rio Grande: Pa’l Yunque Food Park

We found this on the way home from hiking El Yunque. I enjoyed a falafel while Bob had a burger. The food park was small, accessible, cheap, and delicious. Nice shelter from a rainstorm, too. Perfect end of a hiking day.
Info: facebook.com/palyunquefoodpark/
Map: 40 PR-955 00721 Rio Grande, Puerto Rico

Vieques: Rincon del Sabor

We only ate at the coffee place here, which serves up a good breakfast and the best shakes I have ever had. There are other food trucks with traditional Puerto Rican food, but they were closed due to COVID.
Info: facebook.com/rincondelsaborvqs
Map: Carretera 200 km 0.6, Florida, Vieques, Puerto Rico, 00765

Luquillo: The Kioskos

The Luquillo Kioskos (food kiosks) aren’t a food truck park, but a long row of around 60 family-owned kiosks selling food, drinks, and souvenirs, located on a service road just north of Route 3, near the Luquillo Public Beach. Right behind them is a slightly rundown beach that locals love to hang out in, blasting music and jet skiing. Tourists often get it confused with Balneario (Pubic Beach) Luquillo, which is just east but still walking distance to the kioskos for lunch.

A kiosko

The kioskos themselves are pretty rundown and some are closed, but don’t let their appearance discourage you from having a truly Puerto Rican dining experience. Most have outdoor dining in the rear with views of the Atlantic Ocean. Avoid overrated La Parrilla Restaurant on the west end, which attracts diners with its large parking lot and aggressive advertising, but provides nothing special in service, ambiance, or food quality. Our favorite restaurant here is Revolution Pizza.
Info: puertoricodaytrips.com/luquillo-kiosks
Map: goo.gl/maps/4rkEoCWX2h22zduJ9

Restaurants

Here are some favorites from around the island.

Aguadilla: Cinco

Creative Caribbean Cuisine, served up in a stylish atmosphere. Pricy and elegant, with excellent cocktails. The menu is unique and the food is delicious. You would find a place like this on New York’s Upper East Side.
Info: facebook.com/cincorestaurant/

Map: KM. 9.2 PR-110, Aguadilla Pueblo, Aguadilla 00603

Fajardo: Las Vistas Cafe at Las Croabas

This restaurant served up the best meal I had in eastern Puerto Rico. Get reservations, as it’s very popular and COVID careful, even though you are dining on a rooftop with 360° views of Las Croabas Bay, Seven Seas Beach, and the islands of Vieques and Culebra. The owner, Gladys, treats every customer like her best friend. The food is exquisite. Breakfast, lunch,nd brunch only.
Info: lasvistascafepr.com/
Map: goo.gl/maps/uVZ2jgMv7EFj7a138

Condado: Pinky’s
This is a lovely little breakfast discovery but forget about getting in on a weekend day. There’s also one on Calle Loiza.
Info: facebook.com/Pinkys-112452892183010
Map: 1351 1351 Ashford Ave., Condado, Puerto Rico

Manatí: Pollo Costero BBQ

Another roadside discovery. The friendly, English-fluent proprietor let us pick a la carte whatever looked interesting in the food case, and charged hardly anything. The rotisserie chicken was mouthwatering; we speculated it could be as fresh as the chicken roadkill we had seen on the way there. (Just kidding.)
Info: facebook.com/pollocosterobbq
Map: Carretera 685 00674 Manati, Puerto Rico

Cabo Rojo: Annie’s Place

Who cares if the food is any good? Which it is, but that’s not the point. The location right next to glorious Combate Beach is the bomb, and the sunsets are not to be believed. The menu is seafood, seafood, and more seafood, with the choice of the same sauces we saw at every other seafood restaurant. The drinks are great. Did I mention the spectacular sunsets?
Info: facebook.com/Annies-Place-Combate-Beach-Cabo-Rojo-1552167661708533/
Map: Playa El Combate Beach, PR-3301, Boquerón, 00622

View of Annie’s fromCombate Beach

Cabo Rojo: Coco Loco BBQ Smokehouse

Great BBQ in an unassuming outdoor setting. One-woman show.
Info: No website.
Map: Carr 102 km 15.9, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Cabo Rojo: El Bohio, Joyuda

Joyuda is a fisherman’s village with a bunch of excellent seafood restaurants to choose from. We chose El Bohio because of its large back deck. Which faces the ocean and provides the best sunset views. A gang of enormous gray fish hangs out in the shallow water right by the ready to jump on food craps the staff throws, which provides excellent entertainment. Families love this place. Probably any restaurant in this town would be excellent.
Info: facebook.com/elbohio.restaurant, puertoricodaytrips.com/joyuda-seafood/
Map: Carretera 102 km.14.1, Cabo Rojo, 00623

Sunset View from El Bohio

Luquillo: Boardriders Surf Bar and Grill

This was our favorite restaurant while living in Luquillo. It provides two levels of outdoor seating, all with views of the crashing surf at La Pared Beach. Expect excellent passion fruit mojitos, healthy vegetarian options, and really friendly staff. Live entertainment on the weekends features sounds of roots, reggae, jazz, rumba, and more.
Info: boardriderssurfbar.com/
Map: US, 25 Calle Miguel Veve Calzada, Luquillo, 00773

Beto at Boardriders

Culebra: Dinghy Dock Restaurant

This popular place right on the water offers up outstanding Bushwhackers and excellent American food. It’s popular; come early or be prepared to wait in line.
Info: facebook.com/Dinghy-Dock-Culebra-970553193101653
Map: 372 Calle Fulladoza 00775 Culebra, Puerto Rico

Dinghy Dock

Up next … Finding New York-Quality Pizza in Puerto Rico

The rest of the series:

Part 1: Eating in Puerto Rico

Part 2: What is Puerto Rican Food?

The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico, Part 1

Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ricardo_mangual/10313662306/

“Where are the best places to eat in Puerto Rico?”

Many prospective travelers to this wonderful island seek gustatory advice in advance, as part of their trip planning. And this is understandable! So Messy Suitcase is here to help you eat authentically and well, in a new series, The Messy Suitcase Guide to Eating in Puerto Rico.

We are of several minds about PR meal planning. First of all, most Puerto Ricans would probably say the best place to eat is in Abuela’s (Grandma’s) kitchen.

Secondly, while you’re searching for that recommended restaurant, you may be passing ten others that are just as good or better.

Everybody’s taste is different, be it flavor, style, formality, familiarity, level of spice, authenticity, or whatever makes your tongue sing. So one person’s Michelin 5-Star restaurant may be another person’s disappointment.

Be Adventurous!

Half the fun of Puerto Rican food–or really, any country’s food–is making discoveries. You’re sunning on Playa Combate, the day is ending, you see lights of a restaurant twinkling at the north end of the beach. You wander over and stumble upon a restaurant overlooking the ocean at sunset, with excellent cocktails and unparalleled views. No recommendation necessary! Just explore.

Trying something new doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll like it, but it’s still important to be adventurous.

Example #1: Piñones

We have visited the Piñones food stands area just east of San Juan, driving along the ocean and picking out unassuming food stands from which to order traditional Puerto Rican food, prepared the way Abuela makes it.

Source: flickr.com/photos/beruff/2132545678

Visiting Piñones is a local tradition, especially on weekend afternoons. These ramshackle food stands have been operating for years. No matter which you pick, the atmosphere is rustic, to be kind. The service is slow, to be kind. The food is really greasy, to be kind. But the piña coladas are perfection. Carrying your oily lunch to the beach to picnic in the sand while watching the waves crash is an unforgettable experience, not to be missed.

You know what IS forgettable, though? The food. For example, alcapurrias (al-kuh-por-EE-yuhs) are grease-laden lumps of dough with a dash of some sort of meat or seafood. They soak into your tongue before you can swallow, then sit in your stomach and take up residence like guests who refuse to leave.

Source: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Alcapurrias-many.jpg

Am I sorry I had this experience? Absolutely not. It’s true Puerto Rico. (And now I know to avoid alcapurrias.)

Would I recommend it? Absolutely. (But maybe just once.)

Avoid Chinese Food

A word to the wise, though: Don’t eat Chinese food in Puerto Rico. We have had excellent Chinese food in many places, including Guadalajara, Mexico. But on the Island of Enchantment? Not once. Just don’t go there. It is universally terrible. The meat has a weird texture. The sauces are limited, and taste odd. The vegetables are sparse, and none of them are Chinese. Every dish, inexplicably, comes with a side of soggy French fries. (Gotta get that deep-fried in!)  Please. Anything but this.

Food Truck Parks

The latest trend in Puerto Rico is our favorite–food truck parks.

These are brilliant for a number of reasons:

  • They are outdoors–no COVID fears.
  • They provide a wide variety of options. If you have different tastes or picky eaters in your group, you can split up and find something for everyone, then come back together to eat.
  • The food is cheap.
  • The food is freshly made to order.
  • They always set up pleasant covered areas to sit and enjoy your meal.

Up next … Part 2: A Guide to Puerto Rican Food

Snorkeling Safety Tips — for You AND the Reefs!

Snorkeling is one of the most inspiring activities you can do. It’s a privilege to be able to float in the water alongside sea life, looking down on spectacular coral and finding yourself magically surrounded by colorful fish.

But with that freedom comes great responsibility, as Peter Parker’s gentle Uncle Ben would say. Coral is very fragile. It’s battered daily by currents, and sometimes severely damaged by hurricanes. But its greatest enemy is humanity. Whether it’s monstrous oil spills, boat engines, or the fins on your feet, coral is easily damaged and takes years to grow back. So don’t be part of the problem, and don’t damage the coral!

How to Take Care of the Reefs

10 Snorkeling Safety Tips Infographic, Snorkeling Guide

Wear reef-safe sunscreen: Use reef-safe sunscreen so that you don’t put chemicals in the water that can hurt the coral. Learn more.

Maintain safe distance: Do not swim too close or touch the underwater flora and fauna.

Watch your feet: Don’t step on or kick the coral because it can destroy their growth.

Follow directions: Always follow your snorkeling guide’s instructions whenever you are in the water.

Avoid contact with marine life: Never feed, touch or remove seawater animals or plants

Swim well: By swimming well, you will be able to control your movement underwater and not step on the coral reef. If you’re not a strong swimmer or haven’t snorkeled before, wear a life vest.

Other tips: Always make sure that your snorkeling gear is adequate and comfortable.

Support Reefs: Support the conservation project in the area you are snorkeling. We joined the Rincon chapter of Surfrider.com.

Info for this posting came from Snorkeling tips without damaging coral reef, an article in the Jakarta Post.

Photo from https://snorkelaroundtheworld.com/2018/07/safe-snorkeling-10-tips-for-your/

Messy Suitcase has a new logo!

In support of Ukraine, we have canceled the Russian (Blue), Ellie, from our logo.

Messy Suitcase logo

Just kidding. We may not be drinking Russian vodka, but we could never cancel Ellie!

But Ellie is living at college with Gavin now, and isn’t traveling with us anymore. Kaylee is. And it was time for her to ascend to her rightful place on the throne … er, messy suitcase.

All hail Kaylee!

Finding the Elusive Guaniquilla Tunnel

(Watch Bob’s YouTube video to take the hike with us.)

One of the items on Bob’s Cabo Rojo bucket list was finding the Túnel de Guaniquilla (Guaniquilla Tunnel). We had both seen tourist accounts on TripAdvisor and other websites about how horrendously difficult it is to find, and mixed reviews on whether the search was worth it. But Bob was determined.  (Guanaquila is pronounced Gwah-nuh-KEE-luh.)

“After years of looking for it during our stays outside Boquerón ( only a few miles from the tunnel), we finally found the tunnel. Not worth the mosquitoes, mud and prickers to find it.”

“Finally found it. Don’t bother.”

“I had to climb a post fence that seemed to be on private property. Very narrow, overgrown path that eventually opens up a little.”

It turns out that these people were making the mistake of seeking the tunnel as a drive-by tourist attraction on their way to somewhere else. This is how it the entrance looks from the winding road they were searching from:

Easy to miss!

So imagine our delight when we decided to hike in Punta Guaniquilla Nature Reserve, and when Lisa pulled out her AllTrails app to examine the trails from the southernmost trailhead, she discovered an offshoot on the map that looked like it might lead to the tunnel.  

We found adequate parking at the trailhead after following Google Maps on Lisa’s phone to get to it. The sign at the entrance was not promising, as it didn’t show hide or hair of a tunnel. But we forged ahead, following Alltrails and our instincts.

No tunnel on this map

The actual tunnel is .6 miles from the trailhead, but we extended the hike by taking the trails toward the water, then came back around and trekked toward the tunnel.

We saw some really interesting plants on the way.

Then we saw the first homemade sign that said we were on the right path:

The Guaniquilla Tunnel is carved out of a rocky hillside, with dramatic cliffs on both sides of the trail leading to it. It was used for trains to transport sugar cane.

According to Expedia, this was one of the first tunnels built for Puerto Rico’s old rail network that previously crossed the island. For the first 50 years of the 20th century, trains were a popular method of travel here, but they fell into disuse and left behind landmarks such as this hidden hillside tunnel.

Anyone who thinks it’s not worth the hike has no appreciation of nature’s splendor or what man has wrought to tame it. Go!

Enjoy our Video

Links

Punta Guaniquilla Nature Reserve

AllTrails

Guaniquilla Tunnel info on Expedia

Climbing Gozalandia Waterfalls

Wear good, non-slippery water shoes and a bathing suit if you decide to visit Gozalandia Falls, because you will not be able to keep from jumping into the enticing pool at the foot of this huge waterfall! The main waterfall is truly amazing, at least 50 feet tall, and there are several places where you can climb up and jump in (at your own risk). Or just swim in the pool at the bottom, watching fish swim around your feet.

There is a cement sidewalk and stairs to lead you to the main falls and several above, plus you can just walk in the creekbed.

The drive to get to Gozalandia on narrow, winding mountain roads is not for the faint of heart, which is the only reason you might consider paying a guide to take you. Otherwise, just set out on your own and navigate carefully! It’s about 1 1/2 from San Juan in San Sebastien.

The gate is open from 10 AM-6 PM, and there is a $10 charge for parking. Go early to avoid the crowds, though the community feel of lots of people watching each other swim and jump has its own appeal. Make sure you take time to enjoy a drink and snack at the end of the day in the little restaurant by the parking lot, which overlooks a green pond populated by turtles.

Be aware that the falls can be dangerous if there’s a lot of rain, so use caution and common sense.

Images of the Falls

First sight of Gozalandia Falls

Links

Info on the falls: Puerto Rico Day Trips.

How to get there: Google Map

Hiking the Guajataca Tunnel: Butterfly Meadows, Crashed Boats and Ocean Cliffs

Amazingly, the actual Guajataca Tunnel (pronounced gwa-hah-TAH-kah) was the least interesting part of this hike. And the tunnel was fantastic! But, as always happens when you’re as open to new discoveries, we found so much more.

We hiked through the tunnel and westward along rocky cliffs, with dazzling turquoise sea to our right.

We forked left and crossed a butterfly meadow, filled with plants that attract and feed those lovely insects, such as calotropis procera, and oplonia spinosa, almendro (terminalia catappa), jayajbico (erithalis fruticose). Here are the ones we saw, plus a caterpillar of unknown type.

We later learned it was in fact a frangipani worm and not a caterpillar at all. They can grow up to 6 inches long, travel in hordes, do an incredible amount of damage, and eventually turn into big brown moths.

Puerto Rico does have its own species of monarch butterfly called the macho monarca, which doesn’t migrate. Unfortunately, it doesn’t pose for pictures, either! But here’s one from USDA.

The macho monarca can also be found in the Virgin Islands, Cuba, the Cayman Islands, St. Lucia and Jamaica.  

We found a posterboard about this butterfly and its diet when we exited the tunnel back into the park.

Hiking back along the ocean, powerful waves exploded against jagged boulders rising up from the shallow sea. We passed several remnants of wooden boats that we speculated might have carried aspiring migrants across the ocean from Haiti.

We also found wooden steps, yawning caves, a few creatures, and even a lone dead crab, perfectly preserved on the sand.

The tunnel itself, which connects the towns of Quebradillas and Isabela, is a remnant of the sugar cane era, when trains were used to transport sugar cane from the farms in the area.

Local artists have given walls some color with murals, and we found local artisans and food vendors.

The white-sand Playa Guajataca beside it, protected by a glorious grove of palm trees, stretched east to a campground and river. Settle into your beach chairs and you will enjoy a lot of shade and gorgeous cliff views. 

Take this hike!

Links

Guajataca Tunnel

Google Map

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