On our way to Mexico last summer, we had a few hours to kill and spent them exploring Boston. Join us as Bob attempts to annoy everyone in Beantown with his observations about Sam Adams, Faneuil Hall, the original State House, Quincy Market, and even the Boston Tea Party. We’ll also take a stroll through Boston Public Garden, and Lisa finally gets to ride in a Swan Boat!
This video debuts our awesome new original theme music, The Messy Suitcase Theme, composed by Patrick Hamm, a guitar player/singer/composer based in Hamburg, Germany. Thank you, Pat! Check out his YouTube channel.
We just got back from a whirlwind 4-day trip to Colombia. Wow!
We chose to visit Colombia because Avianca Airlines was having an introductory sale for routes from San Juan, and our current base is Puerto Rico. Why not? We had never been to South America and knew zero about Colombia, except for reading about the Medellin Cartel’s narco wars in the news in the 1980s. Flights were only a couple of hundred dollars, some non-stop, to Bogota, Medellín, and Cartagena. We chose Bogota, the capital, because we hadn’t visited a city in a while. We decided to spend four days there in early December – our first perfect choice, made totally by accident. Then we bought a guidebook, read a little, and booked a couple of organized tours.
Where to Stay?
Our first revelation about Bogota was that lodging was incredibly inexpensive. We chose the historic, walkable Candelaria district as our base. We prefer vacation rentals over hotels, allowing us to spread out and feel truly at home, while living in real neighborhoods instead of tourism centers. We found a delightful apartment at the edge of Candelaria on Airbnb: a chicly furnished corner studio with two walls of windows overlooking the sprawling city and the Andes Mountains beyond. The cost was an unbelievable $33 a night, plus taxes and fees. Booking Fiori dela Candelaria was our second accidental perfect choice.
Selfie in Candelaria
The property manager, Angela, offered an airport pick-up for a reasonable price, and we took her up on it. She was on time, her partner driving a tiny car (the first of many we rode in), and she filled us with helpful information on the drive from Bogota International Airport. She settled us into the hillside apartment, then took us up to the roof garden, where we were greeted by a stunning 270-degree view of sprawling Bogota. We were in awe even as we shivered in the biting wind.
What We Discovered
Bogota is Chilly
This modern city of 8 million people is nestled amid the Andes at 8,000 feet above sea level. Lisa had a headache the first day. Fortunately, we had lived in the Denver foothills for a few years, so our bodies easily adapted to the altitude. But that altitude also brought cooler temperatures – highs reaching the mid- to upper 60s during the day, and mid-40s at night. Coming from hot Puerto Rico, this was a bit of a shock. Pack sweaters!
Bogota is Cheap
We paid U.S. prices for the tours we pre-booked, but everything else was incredibly inexpensive. Doing the conversion from 4,000 Colombia pesos to 1 U.S. Dollar was challenging, but the fact is, once you land in Colombia, you’ll find your travels extremely economical. And Bogota is the most expensive city in Colombia!
Bogota Loves Christmas
We were in the city on Dec. 7, the eve of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, which it turns out is the official start of the Christmas season in mostly Catholic Colombia. We woke up at 5 AM to a huge fireworks display coming from Plaza de Bolivar, the main city plaza. That night was the Night of Little Candles (Noche de las Velitas), when families across the country (and Colombian ex-pat families around the world) light clusters of little candles on their balconies or doorsteps (and on church steps and parks and plazas) to honor the Virgin Mary, Mother of Jesus, and make wishes. Colorful Christmas lights came on in full force all over the country, on highrises and apartment windows, parks and boulevards, sparkling reds and pinks and blues. Families walked about on the pedestrian-only Seventh Avenue (Carrera Septima) eating snacks, buying toys, singing carols, and enjoying street performers. Fireworks continued all over the city until well after 3 AM.
Candle lighting around a chalk drawing of JesusFireworks over Plaza Bolivar
The next day, on the actual feast day, the party continued throughout the city with artisan and food vendors, jugglers and clowns, choirs in the churches, and singers on street corners. Cyclists pedaled on the Ciclovia when a main artery was closed for miles to accommodate recreationalists. Crowds swelled as the day wore on. The next morning, the fireworks started again at 4:45 AM, and our host Angela told us the festivities would continue in full force until Christmas.
Bogota Has Incredible Museums and Culture
We visited the Botero Museum, gifted to the city by the artist Ferdinand Botero to bring art to the masses for free. This world-class museum contains many of his works, plus his personal collection of art by notables such as Monet, Degas, Van Gogh, and Picasso. Nearby, the Gold Museum taught us about the rich history of gold in Colombia, how it was used by indigenous people to honor their chieftains and shamans, and how European explorers sought to exploit it for their own enrichment, setting off Colombia’s violent history.
The Gold Museum displayed many artifacts that told the story of Colombia’s history.
We visited the Military Museum of Colombia, which has many U.S. connections. We tried to get into the Museum of Coins (the Mint) but it had just closed for the feast day. There are art museums, a Mexican Cultural Center, theaters, and we were blown away when we heard an orchestra and choir rehearsing behind closed doors as we stood outside the awe-inspiring Bogota Metropolitan Basilica.
Colombia Is Foodie Heaven
The coffee, of course, is world-renowned, and deservedly so; we brought two pounds home. But we also tried shots the classic Colombian alcoholic drink Aguardientes, which has a fruity sweetness tempered by a tongue-biting touch of anise. There are excellent craft beers, though we didn’t partake. We tried arepas, pan-fried corn cakes. What else? Ajiaca, a soup with several types of potatoes, chicken, and corn, with avocado and capers thrown in. Pinchos, a mixed kebab with a potato at the end. Lemonade with coconut, a creamy paradise for the tongue reminiscent of a Mexican horchata with bits of toasted coconut on top. Coca tea, with and without fruit, which has healing properties. Aromática, a tasty fruit tea that can be drunk with or without alcohol, supplemented by panela, the country’s signature cane sugar. Learn more here.
Bogota’s Markets Rival Mexico’s
We spent many happy hours walking around marketplaces, first the touristic type that can be found in La Candelaria’s parks and pedestrian avenues, which boasted a wide variety of stunning indigenous art and the usual ticky-tacky tourist stuff. Then we crossed to the other side of Plaza de Bolivar and found a local marketplace, the kind where tourists like us can scoop up bargains in housewares, clothing, toys, holiday items, shoes, bags, you name it – as long as they hold on tight to their wallets and phones and aren’t afraid to barter.
Watch For the Videos!
Messy Suitcase will be bringing a series of videos to YouTube to share our Colombian journey. Subscribe to our channel and ring the bell to be notified!
The Vasa, a Viking warship, makes the Titanic seem like a success story. It took but a gust of wind to tip and sink the impressive ship, just 20 minutes into its maiden outing, in full view of excited – then horrified – crowds. The Vasa was simply too tall and narrow to be seaworthy. Then it remained submerged in the harbor in Stockholm for 330 years. We learned the whole story of why it was designed as it was, what caused it to sink, and how it was finally raised, in the fascinating Vasa Museum.
Here’s how its website describes the catastrophe:
“What started with church services and a festive atmosphere ended in a watery grave. It was the 10th of August 1628, when Vasa, the most powerful warship in the Baltic, foundered in Stockholm Harbour before the eyes of a large audience, scant minutes after setting sail for the first time.”
Read the rest of the story of how a puff of wind sank a mighty Vasa. You’ll also find info about how the ship was salvaged in the 1950s.
ITINERARY
This is what the TourRadar itinerary listed for the day:
Day 7. Martes, 27 De Septiembre De 2022 STOCKHOLM
Sightseeing tour of this gorgeous capital city built on 13 interconnected islands. Water is everywhere. We will visit Gamla Stand or the “City between the Bridges”, Stockholm’s Old Town full of life where many of the monumental buildings are located such as the Nobel Museum, located next to Stortorget main square, which pays tribute to the winners of the Nobel Prizes, the Cathedral or the Royal Palace. When possible we can have a nice view from the Fjällgatan viewpoint.
Free time. We advise taking a walk through the City Centre and seeing the museum island. In the afternoon, we offer visitors an optional visit to the Town Hall and the Royal Ship Vasa.
We spent a couple of days exploring Stockholm, on foot, by guided tour bus, and even from on board a hop on, hop off boat. The picturesque Swedish capital by the Baltic Sea is comprised of 14 islands, with an expanse of water, ornate bridges, and boats to add to its beauty.
We did a lot of walking on our own, exploring the Parliament, an old fort, the end of the Changing of the Guards, and then climbed on a bus for a very informative tour in English. Our tour guide took us for a stroll around the lovely old city, where Bob was fascinated watching the way they repair cobblestone streets. Join us as we experience the smallest sculpture in Stockholm, the Nobel Museum, the Wooden Horse Museum (because the wooden horse is one of Sweden’s national symbols), the King’s Garden, and Stockholm City Hall where the Nobel Prize Banquet is held each year.
We stayed in a hotel right beside the Avicii Arena, formerly called the Globe because it is The world’s largest spherical building, and the breakfast room overlooked the interior of the arena. On Day 2 in Stockholm, we took a boat tour, visited the Vasa Museum, which houses a 17th-century ship that sunk on its maiden voyage and was raised from the bottom of the bay 300 years later.
Finally, we found a truly royal place to put our Love Lock!
ITINERARY
This is what the TourRadar itinerary listed for the days:
Day 6. Martes, 27 De Septiembre De 2022
STOCKHOLM
Sightseeing tour of this gorgeous capital city built on 13 interconnected islands. Water is everywhere. We will visit Gamla Stand or the “City between the Bridges”, Stockholm’s Old Town full of life where many of the monumental buildings are located such as the Nobel Museum, located next to Stortorget main square, which pays tribute to the winners of the Nobel Prizes, the Cathedral or the Royal Palace. When possible we can have a nice view from the Fjällgatan viewpoint.
Free time. We advise taking a walk through the centre and seeing the museum island. In the afternoon, we offer visitors an optional visit to the Town Hall and the Royal Ship Vasa.
We started the day with a rainy tour of Oslo, Norway, which is nestled gracefully on a harbor at the end of a 110-km-long fjord. We walked through a glorious sculpture park, Frognerparken Vigelandsparken, (Vigeland Sculpture Park) with its captivating sculptures and monuments and its amazing flowers in bloom in late September. We’ll share photos of the many sculptures in our blog at messysuitcase.com.
Back on the bus toward Stockholm, we had a couple of hours to stretch our legs in the Swedish town of Orebro and saw a lovely 14th-century palace, Orebro Castle. No time to go in, though! We took an hour to wander the scenic streets, and then hustled back onto the bus to head to Stockholm for dinner and bed.
The whirlwind day gave us a taste for future exploration in Oslo and Orebro.
Day 5. Lunes, 26 De Septiembre De 2022 OSLO, OREBRO, ESTOCOLMO Total distance: 530 km.
Scenery: Impressive scenery, with mountains, forests and lakes.
Free time to stroll around Oslo before continuing our journey. 11:30 h. – Oslo- Departure. We travel to Sweden with its impressive lakes, dense forests. 13.00 hrs.- After the border crossing, we stopped at a service area for lunch. 17.00 hrs- Orebro- Arrival to this Swedish town next to a beautiful lake with a castle and charming historic center. Time for stroll. 18.00 hrs.- Orebro. Departure. 20.30 hrs.- Arrival in STOCKHOLM in the evening.
Enjoy Photos!
Frognerparken Vigelandsparken, (Vigeland Sculpture Park), Oslo
Walking around downtown Cancun, Mexico, we came upon a ballfield on which a group of men and boys with painted bodies and leather loincloths was playing a very odd game of ball. They hit a heavy rubber ball by bumping it with their hips.
We learned from a knowledgeable spectator that the game was Ulama, a descendant of a 3,500-year-old pre-Colombian game called Ullamaliztli that was popular among the Mayan and Aztec people. Today, Ulama is only practiced in four small towns of the state of Sinaloa in Mexico. But it’s making a comeback!
The archaeological site Chichén Itzá in the Yucatan Peninsula is one of the most visited locations in Mexico, so of course we climbed aboard a bus during our Cancún visit and headed there for a day.
Rich in history and the center of pilgrimage for the ancient Maya civilization for over 1,000 years, this pyramid must be seen to be believed. Chichen Itza was classified as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and in 1988 was enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lisa actually climbed up the steep steps to the top when she visited in the late 80s, but tourists are no longer allowed to get that close. Good thing, too. It’s steep!
On the way back to Cancun, we enjoyed a short visit to the magical city of Valladolid (pronounced Vah-YAH-Doh-Leed), which had a lively town plaza featuring Mayan dance, sport, and music, as well as a beautiful cathedral, and earsplitting birds!
El Capitolio, the capitol building of Puerto Rico, greets you as you drive into Old San Juan. It’s a century-old neoclassical structure with a commanding dome situated on a hilltop overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Bob decided it was time to take a tour inside!
For Puerto Ricans, El Capitolio de Puerto Rico stands as a powerful symbol of self-government. This video is packed with history, info, and photos, as well as a tour of the many fascinating monuments near the capitol building.
We hopped on a double-decker bus for a tour of Bath, England, a World Heritage city about an hour and a half west of London with stunning golden Georgian architecture, historic Roman Baths, an incredible Abbey, the homes of iconic authors Jane Austen and Mary Shelley, and too much more to recount. Then we hopped off and strolled around the historic city centre, finishing with some excellent craft beer. Join us!
INFO
Here are links to many places mentioned in the video:
Here’s a treat for Jane Austen fans: Come meet Mr. Knightly, Mr. Darcy, and Lydia Bennett at the Jane Austen Centre!
Bath is a great literary city, and no trip here is complete without a visit to the Jane Austen Centre. This icon of British literature lived in Bath for four or five years, writing Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. She mentioned Bath in several other works as well.
Lisa takes you on a tour of the Jane Austen Centre, which offers you a snapshot of life during Regency times and explores how living in the magnificent city of Bath affected Jane Austen and her writing. Try your hand at writing using a quill pen and ink or have your photograph taken whilst dressed in our extensive selection of Regency dresses, bonnets and shawls. You can also visit the Regency Tea Room for a few scones and a trip into the past!
You can book your tickets online for about $18 at janeausten.co.uk/.
