Scandinavian Tour, Part 1: Trying Something New

We love to travel, but planning a trip can be really labor- and time-intensive. Bob has great ideas for places to go and things to do, but no patience for all those logistical details, so the work falls on my shoulders. Sometimes, when I have been poring over AirBnBs and hotel options, comparing flight prices, and looking at rental cars vs. trains, I find myself feeling overwhelmed by all the choices and resentful that it’s keeping me from enjoying the place I am actually in. I have often thought how nice it would be to let someone else do the planning for once! So Bob and I decided to try an organized tour for the first time and see if we liked it.

We knew we wanted to travel in the fall, at the end of our time in Vermont, and before settling into our new home in Puerto Rico. We knew we had to work around our oldest child Aryk’s schedule, because they were just finishing their work for their Master’s degree from Bath Spa University and we wanted to give them the gift of a trip together to celebrate all their hard work. We knew we wanted to see my brother Pat and his family, who live in Germany and whom we haven’t seen since pre-COVID. So that meant the destination was likely northern Europe, and the dates available were mid-September to mid-October.

We decided to start in northern Europe and work our way south as the fall season progressed, in order to enjoy the best weather. I don’t know why we chose Scandinavia for the first ten days, when Bob and I would be traveling alone before meeting up with family for the second half of the vacation. But a company called Tour Radar, offered a reasonably-priced tour of four countries on the perfect dates for our schedule. (We love traveling, but we’re not rich!) Bob found a 10-day tour of Scandinavia that included breakfasts but no other meals, an option we preferred because sometimes we like to share meals, or just have ice cream for lunch, or try street food while exploring a town. The cost was $1600 apiece.

The tour looked pretty whirlwind, so we decided to treat it as a “taste” of Scandinavia, with the idea of going back and spending more time in any places we found particularly appealing. It included travel by bus in a clockwise circle around Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland, by way of buses, a funicular, several water crossings, a fjord cruise, and even an overnight ferry.

The tour was actually conducted by Europamundo, a company of the JTB group, the largest company of tourism and travel in Asia.

This was the itinerary, lifted directly from the provided literature, with some edits for brevity or clarification:

Day 1. Copenhagen (Denmark) 

Arrival and free-time exploration of Copenhagen.   

Day 2. Copenhagen, Odense, Aarhus (Denmark)

Bus tour of the Danish capital with a local guide. Travel to Jutland, passing through pleasant scenery on our way. En route we take a 20km bridge over the sea and stop at Odense, where we can visit its gothic cathedral and the house where Hans Christian Andersen grew up. We continue on to Aarhus and our accommodation.

Day 3. Aarhus (Denmark), Ferry to Norway, Kristiansand , Kristiansand , Stavanger (Norway)

We travel to the coastal city of Hirtshals, where we take a 3-hour ferry crossing the North Sea to Kristiansand (Norway). We will continue along Norway’s southern coastline and enjoy its stunning landscapes. Next stop in Flekkefjord, a town with its wooden houses and tiny restaurants on a fjord. Arrival to Stavanger, a small picturesque town that has an active port by the fjord. 

Day 4. Stavanger, Bergen (Norway)

Upon leaving the city, we will stop at the ‘Swords in Rock’ monument, where we will be reminded of the Vikings, before continuing the very beautiful scenic tour. We follow the route going through tunnels, bridges and travel some stretches by boat to go along the fjord coast of Norway. One of its undersea tunnels is the deepest one in the world. This stage gets more relaxed and spectacular with its two boat trips. We will arrive in BERGEN at lunch time. We take a funicular trip to Mount Fløyen which offers amazing views of the town and Bergen fjord. There will be some leisure time later to enjoy the capital city of fjords.

Day 5. Bergen, Oslo (Norway)

 More fantastic landscapes today, images of Norway’s interior region fjords, glaciers, lakes and forests. We will travel to Sognefjord, Norway’s largest fjord. Prior to arrival, we will stop at the beautiful Tvindefossen waterfall. We will take a magnificent cruise through a fjord between the cities of Gudvangen and Flam, and enjoy stunning landscapes and views of glaciers during this two-hour voyage. We continue our journey crossing magnificent snow-covered landscapes. We travel through Lærdal Tunnel, one of the longest in the world. Next, a visit to Borgund’s 12th-century wooden church which is considered Norway’s best-preserved medieval church. We arrive in Oslo with free time to check out its port, main streets, and the artworks at Frognerparken. 

Day 6. Oslo (Norway), Orebro, Estocolmo, Stockholm (Sweden)

We include a sightseeing tour with a local guide of the Norwegian capital; this city combines its vibrant modern architecture with its classical buildings, magnificent scenery and large parks with sculptures. It has been nominated the “European green capital”. After the tour, if you want you can visit the Vikings museum. Departure for Sweden. Enjoy landscapes with forests and lakes. Next stop in Orebro, a town next to a beautiful lake with a castle and charming historic center. Time for stroll and to take lunch. Continuing to Stockholm, arriving in the evening.

Day 7. Stockholm, Estocolmo  (Sweden)

Today we take a panoramic tour of this very beautiful capital city built on 13 islands joined together. We will see the Gamla Stand or the “City between the Bridges”, the old quarter of the city, full of life where there are many monumental buildings such as the Nobel Museum, alongside the main square of Stortorget, which pays tribute to the winners of the Nobel Prizes, the Cathedral, and the Royal Palace. Whenever possible, we will enjoy a pretty view from the Fjällgatan viewpoint. Then leisure time. We recommend visiting the museums and parks. Optionally, we suggest a visit to the City Hall and to the Vasa Museum.

Day 8. Stockholm, Estocolmo (Sweden), Ferry Estocolmo, Turku (Helsinki) 

Enjoy a free day of leisure in Stockholm. In the evening we will board a modern ferry traveling overnight to Finland, where accommodation will be in double cabins with private bathrooms. 

Day 9. Ferry Estocolmo (Sweden to Finland), Turku , Naantali, Helsinki  (Finland)

As we arrive to Finland, we recommend that you go to the ship’s deck for sunrise, enjoy mesmerizing landscapes from the sea as we sail along Aland Islands, hundreds of islands covered by forests. We disembark the ferry and have time to walk around Turku, a city with a very strong Swedish influence. We continue our journey to the neighboring city of Naantali, a very picturesque town with wooden houses next to the sea. We travel on until we arrive in Helsinki, reaching at lunchtime. In the afternoon enjoy leisure time, you will be able to explore the city, with its old market, buildings with Russian influence, and churches.

Day 10. Helsinki (Finland)

We enjoy a boat trip to Suomenlinna Islands, a group of islands where we can witness a great fortress that used to protect the sea entry to the city, it has been declared World Heritage Site. Take time to walk around, it is possible to cross the islands through small pedestrian bridges. Free time during the afternoon.

We were excited! We scheduled a couple of nights in Copenhagen at the beginning of the tour, packed our KF-94 masks, found house sitters to live with the cat, and set out on Sept. 18 from Boston Logan for a new kind of traveling adventure.

Next up … Scandinavian Tour, Part 2: Exploring Copenhagen

The Pterocarpus Forest: A Nature Enclave Within a Sprawling Resort

Who would expect to find a beautifully preserved nature preserve in the middle of the largest resort development in Puerto Rico? But that’s what we discovered when we entered the Pterocarpus Forest.

The Pterocarpus Forest nature preserve at Palmas del Mar is a 51-acre swamp forest, one of the largest remaining swamp forests in Puerto Rico. It serves as a habitat for 44 species of flora and 52 species of fauna, and this is a relief to see when elsewhere in Palmas del Mar, trees are being razed to create the latest luxury developments.

This wetland forest is named after the Pterocarpus Officinalis tree (“Dragonsblood Tree”), which has awesome roots that spread out majestically. It can grow more than 65 feet tall.

There’s also a lookout tower and a pond, which provide lively bird, turtle and iguana-watching.

Although Palmas is a private development, the Pterocarpus Forest is open to the public. Just tell the guard at the gate that’s where you are going. They have even been known to give out forest maps. There’s also an app that offers a walking tour of the forest.

Links

Info
Map

Back on a Bike!

First bike ride of the year in Ludlow, just 10 miles into town and back. God, the roads are in bad condition! But it was a sunny 70 degrees. Lovely start to the season!

Touring Hacienda Muñoz, the Closest Coffee Hacienda to San Juan

We took a tour of Hacienda Muñoz in San Lorenzo, half an hour up the mountains from San Juan. Its coffee has won the Best Coffee People’s Choice Award at the Puerto Rico Coffee and Chocolate Expo for three years running. Is it really that good?

The tour focused on the coffee-growing industry and its history, as well as the methods used to grow, process, and roast coffee. The detail was sometimes excruciating, as we stood on the hillside in the hot sun listening to our impassioned guide go on and on and on.

While small, it’s a much larger operation than Hacienda Iluminada, the small hacienda we toured last fall which focused its tour on sustainable practices and integration into the forest. Here, we saw neat rows of coffee plants planted in full sun. In addition to its coffee fields, Hacienda Muñoz operates a small café, where we enjoyed fresh turkey sandwiches on baguettes, and a larger restaurant.

Lisa bought a bag of medium-roast coffee, and it was indeed exemplary.

The cost for the tour was $20, or $10 for kids and those over 60. It included a tasting.

Links

Info
Discover Puerto Rico Article
Map 

San Juan Artisan Distillers Make Puerto Rican Rum the Old-Fashioned Way

Join us for a tour of Puerto Rico’s first agricola (farmer) rum estate distillery!

San Juan Artisan Distillers (Destilería San Juan) in Vega Alta is the only rum factory in Puerto Rico that makes its rum from sugar cane plants, inspired by the island’s tradition. Most rum distillers import molasses from other countries. But at this plant just half an hour west of San Juan, we got to walk through sugar cane fields, visit the barrel room, see the distillation tanks, learn what experimental flavors are brewing in the lab, watch staff label the bottles, and of course taste the various flavors of rum!

A family-owned company that launched in 2011, San Juan Artisan Distillers produce handcrafted ron caña (sugar cane rum) of exceptional quality infused with local tropical fruit, natural flavors and spices. The distillery makes six fruit-infused rums under the brand Tresclavos—Ginger Spice, Sweet Piña, Passion Parcha, Rumba Mango, Coco Loco, and Bili Quenepa—as well as an award-winning signature rum called Ron Pepón.

It’s the only rum distiller on the island that can offer a tour of the rum process from the sugar can plant all the way to your lips!

Thank you, Monica, for the informative — and delicious! — tour.

Links

Info

Map

Exploring the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England

When we took a Thames River Cruise from London to Greenwich last fall to see the Royal Meridien, we discovered the National Maritime Museum, one of a quartet of the Royal Museums in Greenwich. The others are the Royal Observatory Greenwich, where the Meridien resides, and two others that will have to wait till next time: the historic ship Cutty Sark and the Queen’s House.

The National Maritime Museum takes you on an exploration of British naval history and Imperial arrogance, with a ship simulator, nautical oddities, and interactive games. We loved the giant message in a bottle and the colorful exhibit of ship figureheads. Admission was free.

What a fun discovery! Greenwich deserves more than a day.

Enjoy the video!

Thames River Cruise Photos

Links

Info:

National Maritime Museum

City Cruises

Thames River Sightseeing

Uber Boat

Map

We were here 14 Years Ago! Arecibo Observatory After the Crash (and Before)

Our family visited Arecibo Observatory to see the 1,000-foot radio-telescope constructed in a sinkhole in the karst region of western Puerto Rico during a vacation in April 2008. The radio-telescope and its visitors center offered a fascinating exploration of space for my two science-minded kids. Naturally, they don’t remember it all today. But Bob and I do! That’s why, when we heard that the colossal radio-telescope had collapsed last year, we booked tickets as soon as the facility reopened to see how it looks now.

Arecibo Observatory in 2008

Here are some photos from our 2008 visit with our kids, Aryk and Gavin, who were 10 and 7.

The thing on the right is the Gregorian Dome

Arecibo Observatory Today

And here is what it looks like, almost exactly 14 years later.

The first three cables snapped in November 2019, and the rest a month later. A couple of years earlier, Puerto Rico experienced a number of earthquakes, which may have compromised the structure’s integrity. But there really is no definitive answer as to why it collapsed.

The Arecibo facility has asked the National Science Foundation for funds to build back better, but has received no answer.

The Past and Present Converge

Watch a spectacular YouTube video of the crash here.

The Work Continues Anyway

Despite the collapse of the giant radio-telescope, scientists continue their work at the Arecibo Observatory (AO) to study the huge amount of data collected over 50 years. It is still recognized as a world-leading radio astronomy, solar system radar, and atmospheric physics facility. It contributes highly relevant data to support discovery, innovation, and the advancement of science for the well-being of humankind. 

Visitors and Science Center

The state-of-the-art Science and Visitors Center holds a lively interactive museum where kids can watch a film, build a spaceship, play games, and see a model of the original telescope.  It’s definitely worth the trip!

The Arecibo Observatory is a facility of the National Science Foundation operated under a cooperative agreement by the University of Central Florida.

Watch for Bob’s YouTube video, coming soon!

LINKS

Info

Map

Scryer Rum in Old San Juan: Missed Opportunities

As Messy Suitcase makes the rounds of rum distilleries across Puerto Rico, we discovered a new boutique one in Old San Juan and decided to pay a visit. Scryer Rum Barrelhouse & Rooftop is a small-batch, pot-distilled sipping rum distillery in a gorgeous historic building.

Sipping

“Sipping” is industry-speak for expensive – the good stuff you drink on its own, as opposed to the cheap stuff you pour into a cocktail.

Scryer was founded by a couple of buddies shortly before the pandemic. Garrett, who led our tour, started his alcohol education in whiskey and brought that expertise to rum distilling. But while the partners have created a delicious sipping rum, a lovely bar and a delightful rooftop, they have a lot to learn about running a good tour! They missed out on a lot of opportunities. Find out why in this video.

(Sorry in advance for the loud music in the background – they conduct the tour right next to the noisy bar.)

Links

Info

Map

Snorkeling Buck Island, St. Croix. Four Thumbs Up!

No visit to St. Croix is complete without a trip to its crown jewel of underwater glory: Buck Island.

What lies beneath this turquoise water? We’ll soon find out!

Located one and a half miles from the dock at Christiansted across the turquoise sea, Buck Island Reef National Monument offers over 19,000 acres of both submerged and dry lands that are pristine and perfect for nature exploration. The only way to get there is on a National Park Service-approved boat tour. We chose to take a half-day catamaran trip with Big Beard Adventures.

Leaving Christiansted Boardwalk
Enjoying the boat
First view of Buck Island

There are hiking trails on Buck Island will take you through a tropical dry forest to the hilltop; we didn’t have time to do this. (Take the full-day tour if you want to hike.)

Beaching

But we did have time to visit the beach, where we watched gray pelicans and magnificent frigatebirds fish while novices were back at the boat learning how to snorkel. Then the Big Beard crew honked the horn for us the re-board the catamaran, and took us around to the other side of the island.

Snorkeling

We pulled on our masks and fins and jumped in with the first group and snorkeled for an hour and a half above an outstanding reef teeming with colorful fish and majestic elkhorn coral. Enjoy Bob’s YouTube video!

Drinking

On the way back to Christiansted, we enjoyed punch made with St. Croix’s own Mutiny Vodka (we will visit their distillery on our next visit to the island) while visiting with our new friends, Jane and Rick from St. Louis! (Jane originally hails from Adelaide, Australia, and both are scuba divers.)

Messy Suitcase heartily recommends Big Beard’s Adventure Tours. Four thumbs up! The captain made the safety instructions hilarious; his crew did a great job of getting to know every participant’s needs and aspirations for the trip; and they were all extremely capable – and fun! (And yes, all the men did indeed sport big beards, though the new guy’s was still a bit scraggly.)

LINKS

Buck Island Reef

Big Beard’s Adventure Tours

St. Croix Activities

The Queen Conch

Maps

Buck Island

Big Beard Tours

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