We took a tour of Hacienda Muñoz in San Lorenzo, half an hour up the mountains from San Juan. Its coffee has won the Best Coffee People’s Choice Award at the Puerto Rico Coffee and Chocolate Expo for three years running. Is it really that good?
The tour focused on the coffee-growing industry and its history, as well as the methods used to grow, process, and roast coffee. The detail was sometimes excruciating, as we stood on the hillside in the hot sun listening to our impassioned guide go on and on and on.
While small, it’s a much larger operation than Hacienda Iluminada, the small hacienda we toured last fall which focused its tour on sustainable practices and integration into the forest. Here, we saw neat rows of coffee plants planted in full sun. In addition to its coffee fields, Hacienda Muñoz operates a small café, where we enjoyed fresh turkey sandwiches on baguettes, and a larger restaurant.
Lisa bought a bag of medium-roast coffee, and it was indeed exemplary.
The cost for the tour was $20, or $10 for kids and those over 60. It included a tasting.
This innocuous baggy contains the freshest coffee I will ever drink.
It came from beans collected at our friend John Lombardo’s 10-acre mountain home in Utuado, Puerto Rico. John then dried the beans in the sun, roasted them in a wok, ground them, and delivered them to us yesterday. I wish the Internet could deliver to you the incredible smell. I can’t wait to drink!
John’s Utuado coffee, Step 2
Brewed to perfection. Smells like heaven.
John’s Utuado coffee, Step 3
Add some leche (milk) and drink!
Delicious.
We got this reward because we picked coffee with John at his hacienda last fall. And we hope to do it again, many times!
We drove up into the mountains with a friend yesterday to see the home he and his wife built in Utuado. The couple (they asked that their names not be used, for privacy), real estate hobbyists, scooped up 38 acres of property sight-unseen at auction 20 years ago, for just $1,000 an acre. Then they drove up to see what they had bought.
The red point is Utuado
What they found was lush land, covered with banana and orange trees, and a slab where a house had been. The views into the valley and across the karst mountains to the ocean beyond were spectacular.
First, a Campsite
The pair camped on the land for many years, driving up on weekends to escape the bustling city of San Juan where they lived, two hours and a universe away from this quiet spot where roosters squawked and the coqui chorus reached a crescendo during the dark night, where the filament of stars was awe-inspiring. But one weekend when they were inundated with torrential rain for two straight days, which soaked through their tent, and they decided enough was enough.
It was time to build a house.
Creating a Home
Working with friends and neighbors over a period of years, the couple designed and built a small, rustic home with a large main room, a master bedroom, a loft space for their son, and a partially covered porch with an outdoor wood stove and oven. They used found materials and built tables and gigantic doors using local hardwood. Consequently the house looks like it has been there forever.
The woodstove
The home is completely off the grid, with solar panels on the roof providing the small amount of electricity they need. A cistern collects rainwater for showers and dishes. The place is kept cool by its high-altitude location and breezes that pass through the windows. In fact, it was ten degrees warmer than the city below!
The Yard
The house has evolved into a small fruit farm. Passion fruit vines climb up the side of the house. Banana trees abound. The yard hosts abundant bushes offering juicy blackberries. There’s also a bocce court.
Blackberries
Bocci on the left
The Woods
We hiked through the woods to their one-acre coffee grove, wearing tall rubber boots (to protect from fire ants and navigate mud) and deep-pocketed aprons. Our friend used a machete to clear the trail where needed. We then spent a lovely hour plucking deep red coffee cherries off the plants. We then hiked to a neighbor’s abandoned coffee grove and picked those bushes clean as well.
Walking through the coffee plants
Fire ant hill
Picking coffee
We also found a branch still holding a huge bunch of bananas on the trailside.
Bringing home the bananas is a two-person job
One the way back, John and Bob picked fresh juicy oranges out of some tall trees, using a long orange picker. Watch a video of them picking here.
Oranges in the tree
John picking oranges
Quite a haul!
Then we had lunch, burgers cooked outside, on bread bought from a bakery down the mountain, with papayas, bananas, and blackberries from the yard. Magnificent!
This is Part 2 of our Hacienda Iluminada Tour. We learn how coffee is processed for 787 Coffee, and then taste it! Visit our previous blog for Part 1, touring the farm and learning how the coffee is grown!
Enjoy the video, and don’t forget to subscribe to our channel!
How does coffee grow? What does a coffee bean look like? We tasted 787 Coffee in San Juan and had to jump on the first tour of Hacienda Iluminada, where this rich, full-bodied is grown, processed, and roasted. Enjoy the video, and don’t forget to subscribe to our channel!
