The Pterocarpus Forest: A Nature Enclave Within a Sprawling Resort

Who would expect to find a beautifully preserved nature preserve in the middle of the largest resort development in Puerto Rico? But that’s what we discovered when we entered the Pterocarpus Forest.

The Pterocarpus Forest nature preserve at Palmas del Mar is a 51-acre swamp forest, one of the largest remaining swamp forests in Puerto Rico. It serves as a habitat for 44 species of flora and 52 species of fauna, and this is a relief to see when elsewhere in Palmas del Mar, trees are being razed to create the latest luxury developments.

This wetland forest is named after the Pterocarpus Officinalis tree (“Dragonsblood Tree”), which has awesome roots that spread out majestically. It can grow more than 65 feet tall.

There’s also a lookout tower and a pond, which provide lively bird, turtle and iguana-watching.

Although Palmas is a private development, the Pterocarpus Forest is open to the public. Just tell the guard at the gate that’s where you are going. They have even been known to give out forest maps. There’s also an app that offers a walking tour of the forest.

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Back on a Bike!

First bike ride of the year in Ludlow, just 10 miles into town and back. God, the roads are in bad condition! But it was a sunny 70 degrees. Lovely start to the season!

Messy Suitcase Mini-Tour: Guayanés Beach in Yabucoa

Guayanés Beach, in Yabucoa on the southeast coast of Puerto Rico, was lovely, quiet, and tranquil, for most of the day. It even had bathrooms! It was a beautiful crescent of sand and turquoise sea with lively waves. I walked down to one end and found the most beautiful seashells I have seen on any beach in Puerto Rico, including a sand dollar.

Mid-afternoon, the peace was broken when a rural Puerto Rican family arrived with their horses in a trailer, and inadvertently entertained us by riding back and forth along the beach, and even taking their horses into the waves for a swim! By mid-afternoon, they had set up a party, complete with blasting speaker, behind us by the parking lot.

About then, we noticed the ants under our feet in the grassy sand under a palm tree were starting to bite us viciously. We ended up with burning, itching bites and blisters on our feet for days.

I have a feeling that Guayanés Beach is a rollicking party on weekends! If you want quiet, weekday mornings are probably best. Just watch out for the red ants underfoot!

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Messy Suitcase Mini-Tour: La Pared Beach in Luquillo

La Pared Beach is a year-round popular surfing spot a block from Luquillo’s main town square. We never swam there because the waves were too high, but we did enjoy watching the surfers, including kids’ classes and competitions, while enjoying munchies and libations at Boardrider’s Restaurant.

Enjoy the mini-tour!

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Back in Vermont

From 85 degrees to 45. From ocean to lake. Big adjustments! Good to be home, though. Stick season has a couple of big advantages: we can see Lake Rescue from our house for a few weeks. And we can see the birds nests.

Touring Hacienda Muñoz, the Closest Coffee Hacienda to San Juan

We took a tour of Hacienda Muñoz in San Lorenzo, half an hour up the mountains from San Juan. Its coffee has won the Best Coffee People’s Choice Award at the Puerto Rico Coffee and Chocolate Expo for three years running. Is it really that good?

The tour focused on the coffee-growing industry and its history, as well as the methods used to grow, process, and roast coffee. The detail was sometimes excruciating, as we stood on the hillside in the hot sun listening to our impassioned guide go on and on and on.

While small, it’s a much larger operation than Hacienda Iluminada, the small hacienda we toured last fall which focused its tour on sustainable practices and integration into the forest. Here, we saw neat rows of coffee plants planted in full sun. In addition to its coffee fields, Hacienda Muñoz operates a small café, where we enjoyed fresh turkey sandwiches on baguettes, and a larger restaurant.

Lisa bought a bag of medium-roast coffee, and it was indeed exemplary.

The cost for the tour was $20, or $10 for kids and those over 60. It included a tasting.

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We own a House in Puerto Rico!

We are spending the day enjoying Playa Almendros in Rincón after yesterday’s house closing.

That’s right, we now own a house in Cabo Rojo!

There’s a sea turtle swimming around out there, poking his head up now and then. A sea turtle greeted us at a different beach, Playa Ostiones, the day our offer was accepted a month and a half ago! Do you think it’s the same turtle, welcoming us to the island?

I feel a new sense of belonging here now that I own a home, even though I don’t live in it yet!

San Juan Artisan Distillers Make Puerto Rican Rum the Old-Fashioned Way

Join us for a tour of Puerto Rico’s first agricola (farmer) rum estate distillery!

San Juan Artisan Distillers (Destilería San Juan) in Vega Alta is the only rum factory in Puerto Rico that makes its rum from sugar cane plants, inspired by the island’s tradition. Most rum distillers import molasses from other countries. But at this plant just half an hour west of San Juan, we got to walk through sugar cane fields, visit the barrel room, see the distillation tanks, learn what experimental flavors are brewing in the lab, watch staff label the bottles, and of course taste the various flavors of rum!

A family-owned company that launched in 2011, San Juan Artisan Distillers produce handcrafted ron caña (sugar cane rum) of exceptional quality infused with local tropical fruit, natural flavors and spices. The distillery makes six fruit-infused rums under the brand Tresclavos—Ginger Spice, Sweet Piña, Passion Parcha, Rumba Mango, Coco Loco, and Bili Quenepa—as well as an award-winning signature rum called Ron Pepón.

It’s the only rum distiller on the island that can offer a tour of the rum process from the sugar can plant all the way to your lips!

Thank you, Monica, for the informative — and delicious! — tour.

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